Heading south...

This morning i was rudely awoken. By rain, and lots of it... Weather was all good when i decided to hit the sack, still 29 degrees or something, but at 3'o clock this morning, the whole heavens seemed to open upon my tent. Luckily though, it's a good tent. And after politely telling the rain to go away, and most importantly not be there when i woke up, i went back to sleep.

Good news is, the rain had stopped by the time i'd awaken, so i got up and did all the usual stuffs, showered, got dressed, hoovered... Just kidding about the last one, there was nowhere to plug the hoover in. Traditionally, just as i was packing away it started to rain, so once again for the second day in a row i had the pleasure of putting down a very wet tent. Bad times. La Source St Pierre d'argencon was definitely my favourite campsite so far though, the view was good and there was only 10 pitches to the whole place, so it was real quiet and chilled. Plus the lady who owned it was english, of course i ignored this fact and spoke my now-near fluent french the whole time.... Pfft.



For the first 2 hours on the road, it didn't stop raining, which was kinda ironic really. The further south i'm heading the more rain i seem to be getting in return! Although saying that the skies are now mainly clear and and its something like 32 degrees. Wahoo!

Am now only 20 miles away from my resting place for the next 2 weeks, kinda sad that the touring part is coming to an end really. Have seen some amazing places and met some pretty awesome people, there's a large part of me that'll miss waking up to a new view every morning. Guess i had better start planning the next one then....! Rough plans are to go further, and for much longer, and possibly in a different vehicle... Something that rhymes with band dover... Au revoir for now!

Altitude and Heineken!

Apologies for the lack of updates, i'm disappointed with my self as well. But to be fair, i've only missed a day, its hardly a big deal! Anyway, as it happens, a lot happened in that day, it's the only day in my trip where i planned to do next-too-no driving. So upon waking Saturday morning, i decided what the plan for today was. I was in the Alps, in Chamonix itself, right below Mont Blanc.

So to me, the natural decision was to climb. Something big.

Unfortunately i didn't have the time, money, equipment, fitness or experience to even think about the 'white mountain'. So before i got too excited i quickly pushed that idea out of my head! I decided to head back towards Chamonix, but head south, to the foothills of the south bank of mountains. I found somewhere to park the car next to a country park type place, loaded up my bag and headed... Well, up i guess. Oh yeah there was some guys slacklining near where i parked the car.



I headed into the forest and found a path that was heading upwards, (I really didn't have a plan!) unfortunately though this path soon fizzled out. Undeterred i pushed on, straight on up through some very thick forest. Eventually after about an hours worth of climbing i hit a mountain footpath. Wahoo!

I followed the path upwards, turns out it is a mountain path used guides and for training by mountain rescue teams. I did start to get a little worried as the very few people that I did see, seemed to be carrying a great deal of kit, and they all had walking poles. I never understood the need for them, plus i think they just look silly. Anyway, i digress... The path got steeper and steeper, and became very rocky and actually pretty hard going. However, the views on the way up were something else....!









Long story short, 3 hours later i made the summit of Bel Lachat, 2152m above sea level. I was pretty pleased with myself i'll admit (see cheesy grin photo below), it's the tallest mountain i've climbed to date. And makes Snowdon and the like look like molehills! The park at where i started was 780m, so almost 1400m ascent is pretty good going to me!


Anyway, views from the top!
















Another 3 hours later, and i was back at the car wahooo! I was pretty knackered by this point, (I know, i'm a weed and a woos and everything else....) So a shower and dinner ensued once back at the site! I did spoil myself and cooked 2 bags of rice as well as a tin of chilli. Jheez, i may as well be in a hotel!

At the site i was lucky enough to meet some really good people. A belgian couple who were touring a little like me, but had decided to stay in Chamonix for an undecided amount of time before heading back home. And then my friends Dave and Kate from salisbury. Writing this now, im kinda regretting not taking any photos, as i could just be making all these names up and never of spoken to anyone. But honestly they really did exist! That night, as it was a Saturday, we decided to discover what the nightlife is like in Chamonix. So we all hopped into Kate's incredibly spacious saxo (I forget her name!) and drove into town. Eventually we found a good little, not to touristy, bar in the town centre. 3 hours later and several litres of heineken later, we loaded back up and returned back to base camp. Quick note about French beer, it seems to be Heineken, or ermmm.... Heineken. There's the occasional random local french lager thrown in as well, but Heineken definitely has the share in the beer market!

Nights like that one remind you why you set out on such a trip in the firstplace, the scenery and places that you see, the things you experience, and sometimes most importantly, the people you meet. There the things that make it all worthwhile, and sometimes, to just keep on trekking!

Right that was yesterday, today has been much less eventful. Left the site quite late, around 12, as it was raining 'un chats et chiens'! And i wanted to put the tent away atleast a little bit dry! Today i have covered a meagre 200 miles, although im still yet to locate the campsite so who knows how many i'll of done by the end of the day! Journey was pretty simple, but i'm starting to get a little ticked off with all the toll roads. Sure there nice and smooth and have lots of little parks and stuff. But sometimes one can't help but feel like your just being ripped off. Especially when 80% of your journey is conducted on said roads. Sure you can avoid them, but todays journey would've taken about 3 hours longer if i had done! Rant over.

Stopped at a pretty park thingy though, am now in the hautes-alpes region, and can definitely tell that i'm getting further south! Weathers averaged about 32 today, and i'm having to re-apply sun cream much more often to my right arm than my left! Currently sitting in a cafe in Sisteron, chilling out and writing this!


That pretty much all there is to say. Oh, one more thing, i drove past a wee Renault Twingo on fire. Made me feel very safe in my BMW!

J'adore La Chamonix!

Okay, so yup, it is official, i am in Love with the town of Chamonix. But before i tell you more about this elusive love affair, first some numbers for you, and then a little about how i arrived.

328: Miles travelled today.
1.5: Hours taken to cover the first 50!
4: The amount of croissants consumed my yours truly. Today.
350: The amount of miles the cars managing to average on a tankfull of 'Sans plomb'!
2: The amount of times i got 'geographically disorientated' trying to find the campsite.
1: Annoying texan woman sitting across from me chatting to her overweight husband via iChat.

Was up fairly early this morning, and left La Bresse around 10, managing to strike camp and pack up in about 15 minutes now. And thats without even breaking a sweat! The first 50 or so miles out of La Bresse were slow, which was made up for a little by one of the twistiest, curviest and flowiest (I am aware that none of the last 3 adjectives appear in the Oxford dictionary...) roads ive ever driven. However, the novelty soon wears off when you realise that youve covered just 35 miles in an hour. And have 300 more to do!

Eventually i hit the A39 (i think), and progress rapidly increased from here onwards. Wahoo! Stopped at a service station to grab some fuel for both me and Flo, as a side note, even french service stations are cool. This one had like a massive country park attached to the side of it! Oh yeah, and i went a little weak at the knees when i came out and saw the below....



Back in the car and on the road again, things were pretty boring, but quick for the next 200 miles. 100 miles to go though and things started getting a lot more interesting. Le autoroute de titans has to be one of the most spectacular feats of road engineering i've ever seen. It weaves alongside the side of the french alps, attached as high as 500m up on floating platforms. To the side of you there is nothing but a thin layer of Armco protecting you from rocky obliteration hundreds of metres below! Unfortunately i couldn't get any photos, as i was driving, no excuse i know!

15 miles west of Chamonix i stopped at a rest/viewing station. The furthest peak in the photos below, the one hiding behind all them clouds, is Mont Blanc itself. It's mahoooosssiiivveee!







Eventually, after getting lost only twice and driving six miles in the wrong direction only once, i found the campsite! In broken Frenchglish, i asked the lady if there was room for me to stay. There was, and before i had time to get back in Flo, she had already jumped into the passenger seat to guide me too my pitch! Photos of my camp for the next two nights are below, as well as the strangely peaceful, yet quietly menacing, highest peak in europe that towers directly above my tent!









Am currently in Chamonix, sitting in another McDonalds (if its one thing they're good for its the free wi-fi!), after having a ramble around the town. Chamonix is like no other place i've experienced, there is just such a radical vibe about the place. Chilled out yet adventurous, a 'lets go hiking then rock climbing then mountain biking' type thing, and yet at the end of the day there are bars galore, live music spilling out of every one with locals and tourists sitting, drinking, together. And all this is accompanied by one of the most dramatic backdrops that exist, the French Alps. Ooooh yeah, i found a North Face shop as well! Those that know me will know that i have a bit of an obsession for TNF gear, and when i discovered that this place had 3 floors, well lets just say its not often i go wobbly twice in one day! I like this place, i like it a lot. Pics below!















Oh yeah, i parked next to this...



Right, that's today pretty much wrapped up! I'm off to locate the nearest supermarché to sort out dinner for tonight.

Laters.

La Bresse blues...

I never like too begin on a bad note, but now it almost cant be helped... Unaware, La Bresse, my location for tonight, is one of the top cycling hotspots in europe. And i've come all the way here, without my bike! Okay, so in my defence i did plan too bring her (Telula) along in the first place, but with a few days to go i realised that a long with all my other clobber, there was no way she'd be able too fit in the car. Well not unless i kept the sunroof open, but since it was raining yesterday that probably wouldn't be the brightest of ideas. Literally everywhere you go there's people on bikes, signs for MTB trails, the actual site im staying at is one of the biggest trail centres in the area. Bugger is all that can be said.

Right, rant over. I will now do my best not to mention anything bike related for the rest of this entry. Although since im heading to Chamonix tomorrow my biking' blues are unlikely to get any better.

Aaaannnyyyywaayyyy, La Bresse itself is beautiful. Like really quite amazing, i was expecting it to be good but this is something else. My site itself is in the middle of a valley surrounded by mountains that raise atleast another 1000ft up. The campsite is already 1100m above sea level...




Got here quite early today, around 2, so after making camp, i travelled back into town to sort out dinner for tonight. After browsing the aisles and getting strange looks from all the locals (do i really look that much of a tourist? Maybe its my 'I LOVE LONDON' t-shirt and camera hanging around my neck that give it away....) i decided on spaghetti bolognese. Without the spaghetti, as they didnt have any, so i went with penne instead.

Back too the site and it was still only about 3, so decided to go for a hike. As well as the many signposted MTB routes from the site (oops, did i just mention bikes?) theres a goood few hiking trails as well. As it was only early still i decided to tackle the longest, 15 km. The route was scenic and green and involved some pretty tough climbs considering it was posted as 'beginners'. 5km in, it levelled out and there was a small lake which was nice, another 5km and a few hundred ft more climbed, the route again levelled out. Another bloody lake. I mean i like lakes but i was hoping for something a wee bit more exciting! And there wasnt much of a view as there was there to many trees in the way! Aaah well, it killed some time anyway. Interestingly though the routes up to said lakes also ran alongside what can be described as 'extreme bridleways'. If my French is any good (which it isn't) these were designed for use by 4x4s and wild camping in the mountains is encouraged and protected by the forest rangers. Aaaah if only i had my Land Rover.... Then i could of brought the bike as well... Bugger, must not mention bikes. Anyway, enough writing, heres some piccys too make up for all the gobbledygoop that you've just had too read!










Oh yeah, i found this massive killer, leave eating slug on the trail... I named him Steve.


Right, that's all for tonight folks, i'm off to make Penne Bolognese and watch the sun go down... Bon soir!

Montmedy

Ferry docked in Calais right on time and too be honest i couldnt wait to get out of the place! To me there is just nothing appealing about it, it's flat, grey, dull and boring and it just lacks any kind of appeal. I'd even go as far too say that Dover is better, and thats saying something! Anyway, rant of hatred for Calais over... Journey here was a simple one, spent about a 150 miles on the A26, nice and smooth but i wouldnt say it earnt the 20 euros it charged me too get off it! Then some smaller stuff before getting on the N23 (I think?) and heading east. 5 hours later i arrived in Montmedy, and after a short trip too the wrong side of town, i found the campsite.

Campsite was nice enough, pitches were separated by little low level hedges that would only really offer any privacy if you were a midget. Guess there just being thoughtful too the minorities...? Cost me 9 euros for the night, and that includes hot running water.... I still consider that a luxury when staying under canvas! Only bad point of that is that i had no excuse for smelling unfresh today!

Anyway, to the exciting bit, when choosing campsite La Citadelle de Montmedy, i chose it as it was an ideal stop over on my way further down south. The guidebook said it was in somewhere pretty but i didn't think much of it, after all, don't they all say that? After setting up camp for the night, i decided to go for a wander and see if there was anything worth making a fuss about. There was.

Above the more modern town of Montmedy, lies 'la citadelle' itself. It is a 17th century garrison designed to house the then entire population of Montmedy as well as providing a defensive outlook over the surrounding landscapes. Its hard too explain what makes this place so awesome without actually being there. 90% of the place is still accessible, some of it involved a little scrambling up stone faces and you shouldn't be afraid of the dark as there are some very long, dark tunnels with no light at all. But to me thats accessible? In the main part of the garrison though, people still live there, i'd say there was around 20 houses being lived in. Including one available for holiday rent, think i'll stick to me tent! Anyway, i'll let the pictures do the talking!






































As you can probably tell, most of the place was falling apart, but that made it just a little bit more appealing to an Indiana Jones wannabee freak like me...!

Anyway, back to the present day, am currently sitting in a Maccy D's typing this out and stealing there wifi, just had a pretty good mcChicken thingymabob though, or maybe i was just real hungry.... Something strange though, McDonalds in France sell beer! And you can have it as part of a meal deal... It is Heineken though, so no real surprise that there trying too give it away....

So thats where i leave you folks, in a McDonalds outside Remelange, just off the A30. Got around a 140 miles to go until i reach La Bresse, which is where ill be staying tonight. Weathers not quite as sunny as yesterday, but it is only 10am.

Peace and Love people!

On the water!

So i've made a good start, well the good start being I'm on the ferry, and on my way to calais. The boat is absolutely rammed, and considering how strict the french are on wining and driving, im surprised at how many people are drinking! Guess those breathalysers might come into use sooner than later for most...!

Car seemed fine on the way to dover, better than fine actually, almost spritely, feels so weird with the weight from all my kit in it though, really notice it when pulling away and cornering... Goes from a car that handles reasonably well and turns into a soft squishy 'blancmange'... Ooooh, look at me getting all french!

Guess this'd be a good time to introduce my chosen vehicle for this little excursion, my 2002 MINI One, 'Flo'...! Okay, so she's no Land Rover Defender, but she's still quite fun, and is a lot more quiet and comfortable when doing near 300 miles a day! Any car geeks reading this might be interested too know that shes had some clever engine remapping trickery, an MSD high voltage coil, pipercross air filter, Milltek exhaust system and some other magical stuff to help her achieve somewhere around 130 bananas... (BHP for those of you that arent good with technical vocabulary)




Anyway, enough car talk, just checked the route for today and sat nav tells me that i've got about 250 miles to do before i reach the campsite in Montmedy... Im hoping for about 4-5 hours, so will hopefully reach the site about 7 local time tonight. That reminds me, must adjust my watch...

Until then, heres a photo of all my clobber stuffed into the back of poor old Flo!

The night before...

Okay, so the car is packed, tent and camp stuff all in. Clothes are packed, climbing gear is all in, the cars even full of fuel and so are the jerry cans! Jheesh, this is perhaps the most prepared I've ever been the night before a trip...! Still have that 'I'm sure ive forgotten something' feeling though, but doesn't everyone the night before they leave on an overland adventure?

Maybe this would be a good time to give more details about said overland trip, it's nothing too dramatic or even particularly exciting, but tomorrow midday, I will be on a ferry from Dover to Calais. From Calais I will make my way to La Citadelle Montmedy, there I will set up camp and stay the night. Then I carry on heading south, down to Haut des Bluches, la bresse. Next is the part I'm perhaps most excited about, im planning on spending the following 2 days in Chamonix. After this I'll travel 240km to my final campsite in Pierre d'argencon. Jheez, these French places don't get any easier too say! The day after that, which will hopefully be a Monday, I'll arrive in L'ardeche and meet up with family where I'll spend the next two weeks doing all kinda crazy stuffs in the (hopefully) sunshine!

Now I'm going too get some rest, as I've spent all day doing all the organising I should of been doing for the last two weeks! I'll update tomorrow, hopefully with something more exciting than tonight's post!

For now, here's a photo of camp on my last trip, Snowdonia, Wales. I'm not a total rookie! Honest!